I finally made it to Yosemite last week and got a few good days of climbing in so far. The amount of bouldering here is staggering. So many big tall lines to be climbed. Sorry I don’t have any climbing photos yet, just waterfalls.
On my way out west I stopped in Lake Tahoe for a couple of days. Jesse showed me a rad line that Noah put up this year called Ground Control.
This was climbed, filmed, and edited on Sunday November 14th, 2010.
Music: Abstrackt Keal Agram – Interlude 2
Yesterday I stopped in Little Cottonwood Canyon, just outside Salt Lake City. I only tried a couple problems before the 30 degree temps without sunshine got to me.
I’m now in Lake Tahoe for the weekend checking out the boulders here before heading to Yosemite on Monday or Tuesday!
It’s raining a bit today and it’s going to be cold here for the foreseeable future (highs of 40-45). I’ve had a few more good climbing days; the best of which was a triple double-digit day on Saturday. In the morning I nearly flashed Jitterbug Perfume V10, just missing the gaston move, then sent it second try. Next we headed over to Ghost King V10 where I climbed to the last move and barely missed the jug on my flash go! I sent on my next try.
Later in the afternoon we headed back up to Trent’s Mom which is probably the hardest V10 in Joe’s. I took it to the top after I finally stuck the first move. Three very different and classic V10s that are worth checking out if you haven’t yet.
I’ll be in Joe’s for at least a few more days.
I finally left Atlanta a couple weeks ago. The trip to Colorado was a long solo drive but not too bad. I found XM’s comedy channels help make the time pass a bit faster!
I stayed in Colorado for a few days and got a bit of climbing in but nothing too eventful. From there I headed on to Joe’s Valley, Utah. I’ve spent a few weeks here in the past but it’s been three years since my last visit. I’ve only been here for six days but it’s been a great trip so far. Joe’s Valley is a fantastic place to roadtrip! It’s free to camp, the weather is usually great, and there are no restrictions at all. It’s a great place to roam around looking for new boulders and climb the many established classics. There seems to be an abundance of proud lines here which gives me plenty to work on!
This is my Truck House aka the Big Rig. It’s on loan from my biggest sponsor, my dad. I picked up a nice camper top for it and threw a bed in the back. It works great as a road tripping vehicle, except for the gas mileage!
After 4 days of climbing I have video of the following problems: Fiery Furnace v10, Poseidon v9, Battletoads v10, Playmate of the Year v9, Trent’s Mom v10, Gentleman’s Project v11, The Wind Below v8, Skeleton Key v11, Moment of Truth v9, Bring the Heat v8, and Worst Case Scenario v9. Most of these will show up in a short I’ll post in a few weeks!
I don’t have too many photos at the moment but I’ll try to grab a few from Axel soon. I’ll be in Joe’s Valley for a few more days before moving on to Yosemite!
From Boone I drove over to Waynesville to hang out with my mom for a few days. She loves to hike so on Monday we went on an epic hike to Shining Rock. It was about ten miles total. It was beautiful and lucky for you I took photos so you can enjoy the scenery without walking 10 miles!Read More
Before we embarked on our 6+ month bouldering adventure, Leslie was climbing solid V9 and maybe a few V10s (although he denied that he had climbed V10 before). After the trip Leslie is now climbing solid V11 (at least on the international scale, I don’t know about southern 11s!). He sent a slew of V11s in one or two sessions in Switzerland and South Africa. It was pretty inspring to see the progression happen so fast. He is a very talented individual and also happens to be the most psyched person I’ve ever climbed with. It was good to have the optimist onboard to combat my pessimism throughout the trip!
If you feel like you’ve hit a plateau, maybe it’s time for an extended trip someplace new to get the motivation up and inspire yourself to try harder!
The Rocklands video is coming along well. The good news is that it’s twice as long as the swizzy video, the bad news is that it takes twice as long to edit as the swizzy video. I can’t say when it’ll be done but I can say that it contains some of the most inspiring climbing footage you will see this year.
There are four national languages in Switzerland: German, French, Italian, and Rumantsch. In Ticino, the Southern-most region of Switzerland, Italian is spoken. In Italian if a C is followed by an I or an E, it is pronounced like ‘CH’. Also, E’s and I’s are pronounced different than in English. For example, Ticino is pronounced ‘Tee-chee-no’ and Cresciano is pronounced ‘Cresh-ee-a-no’. This works the other way also, if there is a CH followed by an I or an E it is pronounced like a K. For example Chironico is pronounced ‘Kee-ro-nee-co’. Brione = ‘Bree-o-nay’. Vecchio Leone = ‘Veh-kee-o lay-o-nay’. Hopefully that makes sense!
Magic Wood is in the Graubünden region of Switzerland where German is spoken. I have no clue how to speak or pronounce German, good luck!
Switzerland is one of the most expensive countries in Europe. It is also one of the few countries that haven’t switched to the Euro; they use the Swiss franc which, as of this writing, is worth $1.04. One tip for saving money is to shop at Aldi, there is one near the onramp to the autostrada on the south side of Bellinzona. For Magic Wood, there is an Aldi in Thusis; get off the autostrada at the second Thusis exit, turn left, it’ll be on your left after a km. One other tip is to stop eating meat since it’ll quadruple your meal cost. We made a lot of lentil dishes when we were in Switzerland.
A few tips for any of you thinking about going to Fontainebleau this year.
1. Everything that you want can be found at Carrefour. Imagine a Super Walmart on steriods. If you stand on one end of the market and look down the center isle you cannot see the other end. It too, like the endless boulders of the forest, is overwhelming. If you don’t want to make a trip all the way to Carrefour then there is a nice little market in the middle of Font.
2. Don’t think about camping. It is not worth it, unless the weather is perfect (haha). For around 10 Euro (as opposed to 7 Euro for camping) you can stay in a gite with electricity, a bed, a kitchen, a shower, cool wrapping paper covered walls, and more… There is no question about what to do. You do need 3-8 people to really make it cheap though, but you’ll make friends (unless you’re a jerk). To get a gite, contact the gite office in Font. The people are really nice, and most importantly they speak English. Contact info: 4 Rue Royale, 77300 Fontainebleau, France -01 60 74 99 99
3. If you climb harder than 7a, get the 7+8 guidebook. Get a fontainebleau map. Without this, or someone to show you around, you’ll be lost.
4. There is a sporting goods store next to Carrefour called Decathalon. It carries climbing equipment like shoes, chalk, pads, and pretty much anything else you need. Sweet.
5. You should go to font. This will help you get here: Fontainebleau is only a click away.