I spent three weeks in Hueco, a place I hadn’t visited in two years. I didn’t do any filming there, instead I focused on climbing for a change. I got to climb a lot of cool lines that I hadn’t seen before like Safety Man, Dark Silhouette, Natural Disaster, Meddle Detector, Long Dong, Corey the Pimp, etc. I stayed at the rock ranch and made a lot of new friends which is the real beauty of traveling.
How do you choose what you climb and what gets you so psyched that you spend days trying to summit a piece of rock?
When I started climbing I didn’t have an answer to that question. I was pretty happy to climb on anything and everything! However, as I’ve spent more time on rock I’ve become increasingly picky on which climbs motivate me. The most important motivator for me now is the line of a boulder problem. I would rather climb a tall pure line that might not be at my personal limit than spend days projecting a roof on the smallest holds possible.
THAT is inspiring!! The ~25 foot Splash of Red 7C+ in Rocklands
As an example, I’m in Hueco right now and I haven’t been too keen on projecting anything super hard but I have had a blast getting on more moderate tall lines and trying to flash as many as I can. Problems like Safety Man, Dark Silhouette, Tall Cool Red One, etc. There are heaps of highballs in hueco to choose from. I’m by no means a fearless climber so it’s a good challenge for me to push through mental barriers on a tall or scary climb. Even if I crank off something at my limit on this trip, my proudest send will probably be flashing Safety Man V9 for it’s second or third ascent. It climbs up a giant 35+ foot boulder with a weird landing that sort of comes up with you.
Safety Man V9. Starts low on the left and trends right to a crux over another boulder that you might bounce down!
I’m not saying there is anything wrong with pushing your limits on a lowball but I do think it’s important to stop and think about what gets you psyched from time to time. Climbing is a personal pursuit so if you’re stoked to crank as hard as possible on anything and everything, then great. If you can’t motivate yourself to climb a dabby or chossy piece of rock, then don’t, move on to the next climb. If you enjoy cleaning rock and figuring out moves on your own, go do some exploring and find some new boulders! You may realize that you want to pursue something different in climbing than what you’ve been doing lately.
If you climb for long enough you’ll get to the point where you’ve forgotten about some of your ascents but others you can remember vividly. It might be worth stopping to ask yourself if the energy, time, and skin you’re about to donate to a climb is worth it.
I wanted to share our experience with the company Best Beetle in South Africa. We had heard from friends that it wasn’t the best experience and they rent crappy cars but that they run and will get you where you need to go for cheap. We were hesitant to rent a 30 year old beetle in a country we’d never visited where you drive on the other side of the road but being climbers, cheap sounded like the best option.
We were wrong.
'Best' Beetle aka 'flat tire/engine won't start' Beetle
We landed in Cape Town in the afternoon and a guy from Best Beetle was waiting to take us to their shop which turns out to be 45 minutes from the airport. When we arrived the lady tells us that our beetle is up on the lift so the mechanic can check the brakes before they hand it over to us. We end up waiting for over an hour for them to hand over the car and finally hit the road as the sun was setting. We were exhausted and set off on what should be a two and a half hour drive to our house in Rocklands. The first part of the drive was ok after I got used to shifting with the left hand and working a heavy clutch. Driving the beetle was always a slow process but that was especially true working our way up the mountains. The beetle barely made it, frequently slowing down to 35 mph while semis were passing us on sketchy two lane roads. We had to stop several times along the way to let the engine cool off since it would start bucking up the steep roads. We finally arrived five hours later.
Our 2nd or 3rd beetle. i forget
Our beetle worked for a good week before breaking down for the first time. Best Beetle claims to have 24 hour roadside assistance. Unfortunately that is a lie. We called, told them the car wouldn’t start, they said they would come in a day or two. A week later after many phone calls, they finally arrived to fix their car. It ran ok for a few days then broke down again. I can’t remember all the different problems we had but I do remember the brakes went out completely one time right before we were headed down the pass which would have turned serious real quick.
The short version of the story is the beetle would run for a few days, break down, we would call and yell at them to fix it, they would come a week later and either fix it or give us a different beetle, then the cycle would start again. This was the worst experience I’ve ever had with any company anywhere. Entirely unethical and I wanted to share our experience so you don’t have to go through what we did. We would have been completely SOL except our awesome housemates Jesse, Kenyon, and Ian rented a real car and were kind enough to let us pile in their hatchback!
Bottom Line: DO NOT rent from Best Beetle!
Rocklands is one of the world’s premiere destinations for bouldering and my personal favorite. I love the style of climbing. Tall pure lines up orange and black streaked faces with flat landings and solid sandstone jugs awaiting your arrival at the top. It lends itself to amazing highball climbing.
The Sassies. Photo by Les
In addition to highballs there is a plethora of hard climbing all the way up to 8C which attracts some of the most talented climbers in the world.
Rocklands is in a warm, dry climate. The best time to go is winter between May and August. The 2010 season was warm and dry with very little rain. I’ve heard in past years there have been stretches of 6+ days of nonstop rain but we lucked out with dry weather. You need a minimum of 3 weeks in South Africa to make the expense and travel time worth while and 5-7 weeks is ideal. I wouldn’t recommend going for more than two months unless you go with an amazing crew and can keep your psych up! Another good option if you have extra time down there is to do some traveling. South Africa is a huge country with a lot to offer. If you wanted to visit Kruger National Park on the East side of the country it would take you 23 hours to drive there!
Flights to South Africa can range from $1,000 to $1,800 depending on where you’re flying from, when you book, etc etc. Buying plane tickets is mysterious business; you might find a deal by booking well ahead of time or you might find a deal at the last minute. My favorite site for booking flights is kayak.com; it’s simple, fast and searches all airlines. I’ve heard from a few different people that you can claim your crashpad as sports equipment and you won’t get charged a fee, even with a big crashpad. We didn’t do that but we didn’t get charged any oversized fees during our trip.
Rocklands is about two and a half hours north of Cape Town. It’s in the middle of nowhere and the nearest town, Clanwilliam, is thirty minutes away. There is a bus that runs from Cape Town to Clanwilliam but you would have to hitchhike into Rocklands. Your best bet is to rent a car and to book in advance. Whatever you do, do not rent from Best Beetle. That’s a long story that I won’t get into here but I’ll just tell you that was by far our biggest mistake of our six month trip. You can find many options by searching online for cape town rentals. There are several companies that rent cars that are a few years old for a little less money. Many of them have restrictions for staying within 200km of Cape Town but you may be able to talk them into letting you drive up to Clanwilliam. There is also an option with one or two companies to do a lease buy-back where you buy the car but at the same time sign an agreement with them to sell the car back to them when you leave. That’s a good option if you are staying for two months or longer.
Your two main options are to camp at de Pakhuys ($3-4 per night) or to rent a house. The travelers rest houses are the cheapest and the ones at Alpha Farms are the nicest. We split a house at Traveler’s Rest between five people for $10 a night each. The houses are very basic with no AC, heat, TV, oven, etc. They do have bathrooms with showers and the kitchens have a small refrigerator, a sink, and a hotplate. There is no internet access at the Traveler’s Rest houses but there is wifi that you can pay for at de Pakhuys and Alpha Farms.
Our house at Traveler's Rest
In retrospect, I think I would have preferred to spend more time camping at de Pakhuys since it’s easier to meet people and socialize there. Rocklands attracts climbers from all over the world so you will meet a lot of interesting people on your trip. The campground has bathrooms with showers, wifi you can pay for, and a bouldering area a short walk away.
de Pakhuys Campground
South Africa contains a diverse culture including eleven national languages. Most everyone you’ll encounter can understand and speak English. In Clanwilliam Afrikaans and English are predominately spoken.
The US dollar is currently worth 7 South African Rand. In general living in South Africa is ~30% cheaper than in the US. Everything is cheaper including groceries, beer and eating out. A beer at a restaurant in Clanwilliam will cost you 15 Rand ($2) and an amazing burger is 35-40 Rand ($5).
A new guide to Rocklands was just finished, you can order yours here or pick up a copy at de Pakhuys when you go.
If you want some beta for your projects or just want to get psyched, check out my film Orange Crush!
You can buy chalk at the Hen House (coffee shop) but I don’t think you can find any other climbing gear in the area. There is a big Super Spar grocery store in Clanwilliam where you’ll find all your food and beverage needs.
You won’t find much within 30 minutes of Rocklands so bring some books or other sources of entertainment. One thing you will find is a plethora of is rock to explore. Hiking around on rest days is great fun and you stand a good chance of finding some new problems if you have a good eye. If you venture one or two hours from Rocklands you will find lots of attractions such as Lamberts Bay, Table Mountain, Boulders Beach, Cape Point, etc. Within three hours of Rocklands you can go surfing, shark diving, meet a wild penguin, see the city, hang out at the beach, etc etc.
Cape Point
Unfortunately most of the proper safaris and wildlife parks in South Africa are on the east side. There is one about 30 minutes from Rocklands but the lions and cheetahs are fenced in so it’s not the real deal. It is however, as close as you can safely get to a lion or cheetah which is a worthwhile experience.
2011 is looking to be another great year filled with even more climbing, traveling, and filming. I don’t know if I can pull off another international trip this year but if I can, New Zealand is at the top of the list!
I started off the year with the sale of my first film, Orange Crush. It is shorter than a typical climbing film but also much more affordable and only available for download. I don’t think this format has been used much in the industry up to now and so far the reception has been amazing. I will be expanding on this format this year with a film from Hueco Tanks. I’m planning for that to be closer to 45 minutes and also available only as a download. If time allows I’ll also make a film in Joe’s Valley but my schedule is filled with filming for my first full-length DVD. The DVD will feature lesser known (but stellar) bouldering areas in the US. I’m very excited about that project and I know you will be too once you see the finished product. You can expect the quality to take a dramatic step forward from my previous work since I’ve picked up a whole new arsenal of video gear.
Every year I return home to the South for the holidays to see my family and to enjoy some of the best rock in the world. The sandstone here is unreal, I would choose it over Font any day since it has more texture and more friction. If you haven’t climbed on proper sandstone before, you need to plan a trip! The South is as good as any area in the country with the only downside being a high probability of rain.
Rescue 911, Rocktown
I’ve been trying to have a proper session on The Shield at LRC for the past three years. The first year I was only home for a few days and the one day I got out there it was 30 degrees, windy, and snowing. Last year I tweaked my finger at LRC on King James. This year I tweaked a different finger on my last day in Red Rocks. Thus I haven’t been doing a lot of climbing and have been sticking to moderates, of which there are many classics to choose from.
Golden Throttle, Rocktown
I was scheduled to fly back to Vegas yesterday but the snow in Atlanta has caused a two-day delay in my departure.
Snowpocalypse 2011
I’m flying back to Vegas tomorrow for a couple more weeks of filming before I head down to Hueco.
Red Rocks, Nevada
Savage Films presents Orange Crush, a climbing film showcasing a group of friends exploring one of the greatest bouldering destinations in the world, Rocklands South Africa. Featuring 21 world-class boulder problems from 7B to 8B! Enjoy 30+ minutes of HD sports action including everything from highballs, first ascents, V10 flashes, to epic V13 sends!
You can purchase Orange Crush at HDclimbingvideos.com!
Run Time: 34 Minutes. File Size: 1.2 GB.
You will need QuickTime to view the video.
“An excellent video definitely worth downloading at the bargain price of $5. If you’re not planning a trip to rocklands I’m sure you will be after watching it.” – RocklandsBoulders.com
“This is just a supurb video” – Jens, founder of 8a.nu
“The video is well edited, has excellent visuals and will get you psyched! ” – Climb.co.za
“Anyone who is looking to make their first trip to the Rocklands or gain some motivation before there next gym session should download this piece asap.” – DeadPoint Magazine
“If you love bouldering it is sure to get you psyched to get out climbing.” – ClimbingNarc.com
Still haven’t pulled the trigger?! Watch our previous work, Swanky Swizzy, voted 8th best climbing video of 2010 on VideoClimb.com!
Feedback from Swanky Swizzy:
“Higher quality and editing than many dvds.” – kyote
“The best climbing short I know of. By far.” – paully
“This is the single best short I have ever seen.” – Paul Dieterle
“It’s definitely the most well-made climbing video I have seen on the web” – Tyler Roach
Boulders in Orange Crush:
The Rhino 7B+
Hole in One 7C+
Dirty Lies 7B+
The Waterfall 7C
Witness the Sickness 8A
Green Mamba 8A+
Macho King 7C+
Roadcrew Arete 7B+
Cedar Spine 7C
Pinotage 7C+
Springbok 7B+
Splash of Red 7C+
Stretched & Pressed 7C+
Battle of the Skink 7C
Golden Virginia 8A
Barracuda 8A
Dream Life 7B – First Ascent
All In 6B – First Ascent
Vlad the Impaler 7C – First Ascent
Sunset Arete 7C
Nutsa 8A/8A+
Black Shadow 8B
I went on a solo mission back to Wet Dream today. Two days ago I fell on the last move to the pinch four times so I was eager to return and dispatch! It was forecasted to be a warm one today so I got started earlier than normal.
Drive in to Black Velvet Canyon
Wet Dream is an amazing line that climbs a steep overhanging wall with rad sandstone holds and unique movement leading to an insecure slopey finish up off the ground. It is a power endurance problem where each move is hard and the redpoint crux is saving some energy to pull the last hard move to the pinch. It’s one of the best hard climbs in the country; if you climb V11 or 12 it’s worth the trip to Vegas just to try Wet Dream and Stand & Deliver. There is also a stand start to Wet Dream that is in the V9 range and is worthy in it’s own right.
I had a decent first go falling on the crux, then it all came together. Check out the video stills:
First move
Wet Dream
Sticking the crux
Slopers on the upper crux
Sticking the last hard move!
Not a pleasant hike! 2 big pads, 1 regular pad, 1 baby pad, plus camera gear! The things we do to climb a rock...
BIG THANKS to Blurr for the new threads and Organic for making pads that carry well!!
Orange Crush, a film by Alex Savage, features over 30 minutes of HD sports action in one of the greatest bouldering areas in the world, Rocklands South Africa. It showcases Jesse Bonin, Les Warnock, Kenyon Smith, Ian Cotter-Brown, Matthieu Saulnier, and Alex Savage climbing 22 boulder problems from 6B to 8B! The film features music from Wax Tailor, Aether, Sibot, Dane Moss and more! The song in the trailer is Fire Face by Dane Moss.
Orange Crush will be released by the end of the month and will only be available for download right here on savageclimbing.com!
THANKS to Organic for making the BEST crash pads!!
Featured boulders are:
The Rhino 7B+
Hole in One 7C+
Dirty Lies 7B+
The Waterfall 7C
Witness the Sickness 8A
Green Mamba 8A+
Macho King 7C+
Roadcrew Arete 7B+
Cedar Spine 7C
Pinotage 7C+
Springbok 7B+
Splash of Red 7C+
Stretched & Pressed 7C+
Battle of the Skink 7C
Golden Virginia 8A
Barracuda 8A
Dream Life 7B – First Ascent
All In 6B – First Ascent
Vlad the Impaler 7C – First Ascent
Sunset Arete 7C
Nutsa 8A/8A+
Black Shadow 8B
Stand and Deliver is an amazing V11 put up by Ethan Pringle back in 2005. I think it’s only seen a handful ascents to date. It sits alone high in Juniper Canyon and requires a 45+ minute hike to reach. Fortunately it is one of the best of it’s grade in the country so it is well worth the trek. It features immaculate polished sandstone on a slightly overhanging wall. The holds are decent but some of the feet are poor.
We spent an hour hiking today and eventually found the boulder. I pulled on for my flash attempt, did the first two moves then stuck the big crux move and commenced a crazy helicopter:
Sticking the crux on Stand & Deliver
Helicopter on Stand & Deliver
I somehow reeled in the swing and moved upwards to gain the sloper pinch near the top which felt way better than I expected. At this point I knew it was done since all I had to do was match on the juggy crimp and hit the top. I high stepped to do the match:
Then realized the high foot wasn’t going to work and right as I was about to pull it off to campus the move, the foot popped which made my left hand pop and allowed gravity to grab me.
Uh oh
Two tries later I found myself on top of the boulder smiling. A little later Anthony nabbed his 5th V11 to complete the team send!
I hauled my camera up for this one but of course the battery died just before I topped out. I did get footage of Anthony on my iPhone which turned out really well so that video should be posted within the next couple of days.
In other news, I started a Facebook page for Savage Climbing. I’ll be posting lots of real-time updates about where I’m traveling, what I’m climbing and how my video projects are coming along. There will also be lots more photos posted as well as other climbing videos. Come check it out!
I went on a solo mission today to climb UltraViolet V9, an area classic at Red Rocks. UltraViolet isn’t the tallest boulder but it’s not short so I was a bit worried about taking a fall on my heel without a spotter. The heel is feeling better since last week’s fall on Wet Dream but it still hurts to walk on hard surfaces.
I didn’t haul my camera gear up to this one so I filmed with my iPhone 4. Best to watch in full screen since I filmed in portrait. Hoping to go back with some friends to get some proper footage of this climb. It’s the best I’ve climbed in Red Rocks so far. Don’t think it gets much traffic, there was no chalk on it at all.
I fled the snow in Yosemite last week for the sunny skies of Las Vegas.
Red Rocks
It’s been a wonderful thanksgiving with many old friends coming over from SoCal. I’ve been staying with my good friend Adam who has been kind enough to let me crash at his house in Las Vegas! I’ve done a little sport climbing in Vegas before but this is my first bouldering trip here. On day one I went straight to Wet Dream which is a classic V12 that Ethan Pringle established in 2004. It’s an amazing overhanging wall that leads to an exciting finish on slopers and pinches. It is very steep and very sustained. There is also a right variation that is equally cool and clocks in around V11. I’ve done all but one move on the 12 and I nearly sent the 11 a few days ago falling off the slopers up high. Unfortunately, the first time I fell off the top I swung out, missed the pads, and landed on the rocks below. I bashed my left heel pretty good so I haven’t been able to climb since Friday. It’s feeling better now so maybe after another day of rest I’ll get back out to the boulders. You need a lot of pads for Wet Dream and I’m scared to take another fall on my heel so I’m not sure when I’ll have the chance to get back on it.
Before I hurt my heel I had a day at the Kraft Boulders which is the main bouldering area of Red Rocks. I had a good first day there with flashes of Angel’s Dyno V7, Monkey Bar Direct V8, and Stake Your Claim, a new V10 that was just put up a couple weeks ago. Since I couldn’t climb this weekend it gave me the chance to do a lot of filming which was fun.
Savage Stunners
Anthony displaying his dyno prowess on Angel's Dyno V7
Anthony campusing Stake Your Claim V10
Stake Your Claim
Anthony Trying Americana Exotica V10
I’m planning to hang out here for another week, then head down to Hueco for two weeks before I go home for the holidays. My Rocklands film is almost finished. I’m hoping to wrap it up in the next 2-3 weeks.
