How do you choose what you climb and what gets you so psyched that you spend days trying to summit a piece of rock?
When I started climbing I didn’t have an answer to that question. I was pretty happy to climb on anything and everything! However, as I’ve spent more time on rock I’ve become increasingly picky on which climbs motivate me. The most important motivator for me now is the line of a boulder problem. I would rather climb a tall pure line that might not be at my personal limit than spend days projecting a roof on the smallest holds possible.
THAT is inspiring!! The ~25 foot Splash of Red 7C+ in Rocklands
As an example, I’m in Hueco right now and I haven’t been too keen on projecting anything super hard but I have had a blast getting on more moderate tall lines and trying to flash as many as I can. Problems like Safety Man, Dark Silhouette, Tall Cool Red One, etc. There are heaps of highballs in hueco to choose from. I’m by no means a fearless climber so it’s a good challenge for me to push through mental barriers on a tall or scary climb. Even if I crank off something at my limit on this trip, my proudest send will probably be flashing Safety Man V9 for it’s second or third ascent. It climbs up a giant 35+ foot boulder with a weird landing that sort of comes up with you.
Safety Man V9. Starts low on the left and trends right to a crux over another boulder that you might bounce down!
I’m not saying there is anything wrong with pushing your limits on a lowball but I do think it’s important to stop and think about what gets you psyched from time to time. Climbing is a personal pursuit so if you’re stoked to crank as hard as possible on anything and everything, then great. If you can’t motivate yourself to climb a dabby or chossy piece of rock, then don’t, move on to the next climb. If you enjoy cleaning rock and figuring out moves on your own, go do some exploring and find some new boulders! You may realize that you want to pursue something different in climbing than what you’ve been doing lately.
If you climb for long enough you’ll get to the point where you’ve forgotten about some of your ascents but others you can remember vividly. It might be worth stopping to ask yourself if the energy, time, and skin you’re about to donate to a climb is worth it.
dude alex your posts are always amazing man. whenever i need to read or see climbing that gets me psyched i just goto your site and im set. keep the inspiration and sick vids comming man. Also i would very much so enjoy the opportunity to climb with youl; i live out in New Mexico Albuquerque and the amount of climbing that is to be developed here is unbeleivable so if you are ever in the area and need a place to crash for free lemme know. Im actually gonna be heading to joes valley and flagstaff in like two weeks; never been to joes but from what ive seen from your videos it looks amazing. alright cheers buddy,
Dylin
Thanks a lot Dylin! I’ll be in Joe’s towards the end of the month. Shoot me an email when you come out!
“If you climb for long enough you’ll get to the point where you’ve forgotten about some of your ascents but others you can remember vividly. It might be worth stopping to ask yourself if the energy, time, and skin you’re about to donate to a climb is worth it. ”
= BOOM
Nice one