2011

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Western Gold Teaser

Posted by | Idaho, Red Rocks, Squamish, Washington | 4 Comments

 

Western Gold, a feature length rock climbing film, is available now on DVD and HD Download in our store! Experience the beauty of bouldering in an action packed film set in the stunning locations of Red Rocks Nevada, Castle Rocks Idaho, Leavenworth Washington, and Squamish British Columbia. From the hardest to the tallest the West Coast has to offer, get ready to see something new.

Natalie

The Road Home and The Red

Posted by | Red River Gorge | One Comment

 

When I left Cody, my plan was to spend a week in Colorado before heading home to Atlanta. I spent one night in Denver but some of my plans fell through I didn’t want to go climbing in Colorado by myself so I decided to head home early.

At some point while driving through Kansas I started trying to think of other areas I could hit up on the way. It just so happened that the Red River Gorge was more or less en route. Then I remembered that my friend Carmen was planning on going to the Red. A couple texts later and I learned he was driving there the following day. After three LONG days of driving from Cody Wyoming I found myself rolling into Miguel’s on a Saturday night. I haven’t been to the Red in five years and I was not expecting the insanity I encountered at Miguel’s. The parking lot was well past capacity, and lines for pizza stretched outside the building. I can’t remember the last time I’ve seen that many climbers in one place. Climbing on Sunday was a madhouse with lineups on every line at the crag we went to.

Carmen Ing

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Flying Marc

Cody

Posted by | Wyoming | No Comments

 

I heard about a sandstone bouldering area just an hour from Yellowstone and I thought I had better check it out while I was in the area. I would rather see a new place than go back to an area where I’ve spent a lot of time. I like to travel in case you hadn’t guessed that already! You never know what to expect when hitting a new place and that’s what keeps things interesting.

Marc

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Bison

Montana, Wyoming

Posted by | Wyoming | 4 Comments

 

I left Squamish last week on my long journey back east to Atlanta to catch up on family time and to edit my film. My plan for the trip was to stop in Yellowstone for a few days before heading to Denver to spend a couple weeks climbing in Colorado.

the road

At some point while driving through Montana I started wondering if there was any bouldering to be done there. A quick google search yielded a Montana bouldering blog which indicated there was a bouldering spot a mere three miles off the interstate near Butte. I’d never heard of any bouldering in Montana but I had to at least check it out, right?
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Squamish

End of Squamish Season

Posted by | Squamish | 2 Comments

 

Unfortunately the weather window I was hoping for never came. After waiting out the rain for a week and looking at a bleak forecast, I knew my time in Squamish had come to an end.  Squamish is one of the wettest climbing destinations in the world and after the summer ends dry days become scarce and the forest needs several days to dry out. I know all the moves on World of Hurt now and I’m pretty confident I could climb the boulder which makes leaving all the more frustrating. But that’s how life goes sometimes. Opportunities can slip through the cracks and leave you wishing circumstances had been kinder to you or wishing you had made things happen sooner.

I do have something to come back for which isn’t such a bad thing and I also have some motivation to find some big lines in other areas to push myself on.

I spent just under four months in Squamish which is the longest time I’ve spent anywhere in the last year and a half, and with good reason, in my opinion Squamish is the best bouldering destination in North America.

The rock is some of the best granite I’ve ever touched, the climbing involves very interesting and intricate movement, there is something for everyone here from classic moderates, challenging slabs, and hard highballs. The sheer amount of bouldering here is immense and constantly growing with new areas and blocks being found each year. If you factor in the amenities the town of Squamish has to offer within walking distance to the boulders, as well as world class trad climbing, it’s hard to compare Squamish with anywhere else in North America.  The only major problem Squamish has is the weather, which is to say it rains A LOT. Generally the driest months are July and August. This year was pretty wet in June/July, and dry for August and the first week of September.

Squamish is one of four spectacular areas in my film Western Gold and I can’t wait to share that.  Until then, check out Mike Chapman’s flickr page to see some amazing photos of Squamish.

World of Hurt

Squamish Highballs Part 2

Posted by | Squamish | One Comment

 

I filmed two sessions on World of Hurt in recent weeks including Jeremy Smith’s ascent which will be featured in Western Gold. I hadn’t had a chance to try it yet myself but was psyched to see what it was all about. After hauling more than a dozen crash pads to the boulder and engineering a landing, I was ready for my first try…or was I? After a few short moves you quickly get into highball territory. I stuck the huge move out left to the half-moon sidepull and proceeded to set the heelhook in front of the tree.

World of Hurt

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Teenage Lobotomy

Squamish Highballs Part 1

Posted by | Squamish | No Comments

 

The weather for the past 6 weeks has been blue bird sunshine and 75 degrees. Last week the weather flipped out of summer mode back to nonstop clouds and drizzle. This was about the time I decided I had enough footage for my film and started focusing on my own climbing again.

We’ve been rallying pads for highballs lately and one of those sessions was under Animal Magnetism which was originally a three-bolt 5.13a. It was bolted and first climbed by Jim Sandford in 1992, before crash pad technology existed. The landing for this one is bad so you can’t throw two big pads down and call it good. Jason Kehl was the first to climb it without a rope back in 2006. It’s probably seen a handful of ascents since then.

For the first three months of the summer I didn’t even consider this a boulder problem. I saw the bolts, the terrible jumbled landing, didn’t see the holds, and couldn’t imagine bouldering it. It’s such an exposed line up an overhanging wall.

A few weeks ago I filmed Jeremy Smith climbing the line so I knew how it went but hadn’t tried it.

Jeremy Smith on Animal Magnetism

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Bacon Tarts

Bacon Tarts & Breakin Hearts

Posted by | Squamish | One Comment

 

Our house has seen a lot of action lately with new folks arriving and old friends flying out for a quick visit. All the new and old friends has definitely been the highlight of the summer and so far one house guest has risen above the others.

My friend Anthony Tarascio came to visit for a few days and ended up extending his flight not once but twice! Squamish tends to suck people in and make you want to stay!

Anthony projecting the sit to Worm World Cave

A summer day at Alice Lake

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BTT2

Between The Trees

Posted by | Fontainebleau | One Comment

 

If you haven’t seen Keith Bradbury’s classic Fontainebleau film Between the Trees, read on.


A lot of lower budget films have been popping up recently (including one of my own) but Between The Trees is still by far my favorite in that category. This movie was one of the major inspirations for me to create my own full-length bouldering film.

It follows Keith and Ty Landman climbing tons of Font classics and in particular Ty ticking off an astonishing quantity of the forest’s hardest. It properly captures the personalities of Ty and Keith by showing their focus when climbing and their laid-back, goofy attitude when off the rock. There is enough story and funny moments to keep you entertained but not so much that you want to fast forward to the climbing. The soundtrack is one of the best I’ve heard and the editing is polished to keep the movie flowing nicely. Even if you’ve never been to Font and have no plans to go, I highly recommend watching this film.

You can watch the trailor below and download the film at Keith’s website.