Castle Rocks
My two rest days over the weekend were wholly uneventful, Sunday especially so. The only place to sit inside with wifi was closed and being 35 degrees and windy meant I spent most of the day in my truck reading and playing angry birds. Actually one thing did happen, I managed to run the battery in my truck dead since I was listening to music all day. I had enlist the help of Friendly Idahoan #2 to give me a jump.
Monday finally came and I had a slow morning waiting for it to warm up a bit before I started my hike out. After warming up I hiked up to the green wall.
The piece of a hold I had the misfortune of breaking on day 1
After two rest days I figured I had 3-5 decent tries before my fingers would be shot. There was a chance of rain/snow in the forecast for the next four days so the pressure was on! On my first go of the day I fell towards the end where I’ve fallen a few times before.
Fail
At this point I was starting to wonder whether I could pull it off or not. I was as fresh as could be and conditions were good so I had no excuses. I decided to feel the hold I missed on that attempt so I stacked all four pads precariously to reach it. I chalked it up and placed a good tick mark so I had a clear goal to hit the hold that otherwise blends into the rock. I had only stuck that hold once from the ground and knew I had a good chance of sending if I could just stick it again.
After a long rest I rallied from the start.
Pulling onto the start
Finishing the 1st crux section
I executed the first 5 moves and screamed to desperately grab the small peanut hold.
Going for the peanut (you can see it if you look hard enough!)
I did another move and threw for the hold I’d missed on the last attempt.
The same moment in time from camera #2
I stuck the move and went for the final crux, a huge move to a big sidepull at the top.
It was desperate but I grabbed it and maintained body tension to adjust the feet and finally grab the jug.
Manteling for the win
After a slightly scary mantel over the rocks I was on top! I had just completed the boulders’ third ascent and it was the first boulder I had topped out in Idaho other than the V2 warmup.
All that was left to do was hike out…
2 big pads, 2 regular pads, 2 cameras, 4 lenses, 2 tripods, stickbrush, shoes, food, water...
I’ve got one other solo mission to attempt tomorrow and then I’m off to Washington for a few weeks.
All the images above are video stills from my upcoming film Western Gold.
Good work man!
Stunning wall and sick send!
Nice work Alex! Way to be motivated for the solo send!
Well done! Pretty exciting post… stoked to see the footage.
Fantastic! Way to go, Alex. So cool. Excellent photos and writeup. A bunch of us (friendly) Idahoans have been following your visit and are psyched for and inspired by your send.
Headed to Washington eh?
Sweet!
Leavenworth and Gold Bar are amazing. I’m sure you will have no problem getting set up and sending some of our very fine problems. Watch out though, part of Icicle Canyon in Leavenworth is currently out of comission due to a rock slide.
The most popular areas are still in full swing though.
Super classics in Mad Meadows and Forestland are waiting for you!
If you see a giant truck with GA plates, that’s me! Be sure to say hello, I’ll be here for about 3 weeks.
Awesome post Alex!!! And of course good sends. Exciting stuff! Really psyched to see the vid. Did you get a chance to try the Bagpipper? Soooo goooood!
Thanks Ethan! Didn’t try bagpiper, I was blinded by the green wall! Didn’t try anything else.
man, super sick send, im stoked for you. i wanna be alex savage when i grow up
psyched is high! Nice Alex! A++
What a gorgeous problem! Nice send!
I’m really impressed with your site. It’s the only climbing Blog site I can stomach. Well done.
Thanks!!
Thanks for all the kind words everyone!!
Going to Leavenworth tomorrow!
Every think about hiring a Mexican to carry your stuff??.. I mean.. would give u more focus for the task at hand.. lol.. VALET PAD SERVICE!