Rehab Sending

Posted by | August 16, 2011 | Squamish | No Comments
Me at the top of Doubt. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

 

Other than V2 slabs I haven’t done any bouldering in the three weeks since I hurt my tendon.

Left Rib V2. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.


Yesterday I was out in the forest with the Colorado crew.  They hopped on Doubt which is one of my favorite V5’s in the forest.  It’s a technical arete climb that is a bit tall and has a weird landing.  

Flann trying to stretch her way up Doubt. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

The pinch on Doubt. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

Paul Nadler climbing Doubt. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

I decided to try it figuring my finger would hurt and I would jump off.  To my surprise, I climbed it and my finger felt fine!

Me at the top of Doubt. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

That motivated me to do some more climbing so I repeated The Bulb which is an awesome V8 sloper problem.

Asher was trying the Egg and getting really close.  I started to get super psyched, not for the Egg but for a problem around the corner called Be On Four, a stunning line that climbs out a steep overhang, up an arete, and finishes with a committing move onto the face.  When I first saw this intimidating boulder months ago I thought, that looks amazing but I’ll never climb that!  

Andrew Rothner climbing Be On Four V7.

I’d filmed some friends on it two different times but I hadn’t had the chance to try it myself. After hiking out a few more crashpads I jumped to the start and executed the fun steep moves out right.  A few cruxy moves up the arete led me to the shelf midway up the boulder.

Be On Four. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

All that was left was the scary bit!

Be On Four. Photo by Asher Shay-Nemirow.

I was beyond psyched that my various injuries didn’t hold me back and I was able to climb one of the best lines in the forest. Asher wasn’t planning to boot up but he tried it and pulled out a flash. I finished off the day ticking another top hundred boulder, Palm Meat V6, which involves a hard and scary mantel with no holds.

Stoked to be bouldering again. My list to do before I leave includes a lot of highballs: Black Slabbath, Funeral Arrangements, Ride the Lightning, Teenage Lobotomy, and Enchanted. The only hard line I’m that excited about is Frontside V12. I need better conditions to try it and hopefully that will come in September.

Stay tuned for a guest blog from visiting crushers Flannery and Asher in the next few days.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.