I’m taking an idea from Max and applying it to So-Cal (It’s not a new idea but his post sparked the interest). The idea is to develop a list of the best boulder problems by grade in Southern California. First I want to create the list and then I want you to vote on the BEST boulder of each grade. I need your help to determine whether the lines listed below are worthy and what unlisted problems are true classics. Please be specific and give reasons why a problem is amazing. Keep in mind good doesn’t cut it for this list, it has to be great! Ideally I’d like to see at least two people vouch for a climb before adding it to the list. Also if you feel any of the grades are off, let me know.
Some of the criteria are:
- Quality of the line – tall beauty or lowball traverse?
- Rock quality – crumbly choss or bullet hard granite? nearly everything in So-Cal is sharp but some climbs (Morphic Resonance) get demerits for having razor blades disguised as holds.
- Movement – does it flow or is it thrutchy & weird?
- Obvious start – perfect jugs or laydown start on razor crimps?
The list, to be updated with your feedback:
V0
- Illicit Sweetie – Joshua Tree
V1
- Big Greenie – Black Mountain
- Diamond Zen – Black Mountain
- Emerald City – Tramway
V2
- Campground Arete – Black Mountain
- The Chube – Joshua Tree
- Crowd Pleaser – Stoney Point
V3
- Where the Sidewalk Ends – Black Mountain
- Largo Stem – Black Mountain
- White Rastafarian – Joshua Tree
- Slashface – Joshua Tree
- Like a Virgin – Tramway
V4
- The Pride – Black Mountain
- OK Problem – Black Mountain
- Stem Gem – Joshua Tree
- Standing on the Head of the Dragon – Tramway
- Woolly Mammoth Tusk – Tramway
V5
- Light as a Feather – Black Mountain
- Fallen Arch – Black Mountain
- Where Boneheads Dare – Black Mountain
- High Noon – Joshua Tree
- Southridge Arete – Idyllwild
- Green Hornet – Tramway
V6
- Planet X – Joshua Tree
- Alexandria – Joshua Tree
- Streetcar Named Desire – Joshua Tree
- Year of the Cockroach – Tramway
V7
- Ghost Dog – Black Mountain
- Cracker Boy – Black Mountain
- Tour de France – Black Mountain
- Casino Royale – Morongo Boulders
- My Infested Destiny – Tramway
V8
- Soulsnatch – Black Mountain
- Forms – Black Mountain
- Where the Wild Things Are – Black Mountain
- Velvet Revolver sit start – Black Mountain
- Megalomania – Black Mountain
- OK Arete – Black Mountain
- Sword of Damocles – Horse Flats
- Gluttony – Tramway
- Solitude – Tramway
V9
- Cosmos – Black Mountain
- Rapture of the Sheep – Black Mountain
- For the Love of Basic Cable – Tramway
- Attack of the Staph – Tramway
- Left Hand of Darkness – Tramway
- Soul Caliber – Tramway
- Vanishing Point – Tramway
V10
- Beware the Jabberwocky – Black Mountain
- Man is the Bastard – Black Mountain
- Morphic Resonance – Black Mountain
- Twilight of the Idols – Black Mountain
- Dark Horse – Black Mountain
- Dark Matter – Joshua Tree
- Steep Sharma Arete – Tramway
V11
V12
- Bang On – Black Mountain
- Somewhere in Time – Tramway
V13
- Iron Resolution – Joshua Tree
v0- Illicit Sweetie, Joshua tree. This is a beautiful, tall patina face where you can climb virtually anywhere on the wall without it being harder than v0
v1- Sea of Tranquility, Tramway. fun crimpy slab up to an easier topout
v2- Crowd Pleaser, Stoney Point, climbing a tall, slightly overhung face on jugs, perfect landing and a bit of a spicy topout
v3- White Flight, Tramway, fun tall vertical face.
v4- Woolly Mammoth Tusk, Tramway, this is some of the best quality rock I have ever climbed on
Psyche, Joshua Tree, Perfect rock, perfect landing, tall with the crux up high
Continued:
V5- JBMFP, Joshua tree, This is a Josh Classic, technical climbing on small holds to a good lip
V6- Streetcar named desire, Joshua tree, one of the coolest, original lines I have ever been on
Scatterbrain, Joshua Tree- This thing really does scatter your brain. it isnt to bad once you figure out the beta, but that is the hard part
v7- My Infested Destiny, Tramway, This climb has every move known to climbing and is sustained the whole way
v8- Pumping Monzonite, Joshua tree, sustained Joshua tree classic
Diary of a Dope Fiend, Joshua Tree, Very unusual for Joshua Tree and very fun
Barefoot Sharma Arete, Tramway, Fun Climbing, Both powerful and technical
v9- Byron’s Roof, Tramway, Fun roof climbing with a deceiving lip
V8- Rainbow Coalition arete’ amazing holds and beautiful rock
Over the Boardwalk doesnt fit on the list, imo…
i second:
Illicit Sweetie v0 in Jtree, Wooly Mammoths Tusk V4, as well as My Infested Destiny V7 at Tram.
i would add:
Porcelain Salamander V7 Tram, A Tribe Called Conquest V5(direct is harder)Tram, Morgan Arete V2 Tram (i didnt name it that!), Mu-Shaman arete V6 Giant Rock, Inscription Mantel V3 Mount Rubidoux, Southridge Arete V5 Southridge, Campground Arete V2 Boulder Basin, Coldstone V5/6 Tram, The All Seeing Eye of the Great Architect of the Universe V2 Tram, and Vorpal Blade V12 sure looks good, but i have never tried it or seen it in person.
I removed Over the Boardwalk and added Illicit Sweetie, Woolly Mammoth Tusk, My Infested Destiny, and the Campground Arete.
Barefoot Sharma Arete and Byron’s Roof are cool problems but they aren’t on the same level as the other climbs on the list, in my opinion.
Vorpal Blade is rad but it gets a few demerits for a slightly inobvious start on sharp undercling crimps and for footholds that could potentially break at some point. Other than that it is an awesome climb!
Im gonna second Crown Pleaser at Stoney Point for the V2.
V6-Ummagumma, Stoney Point. Some of the best stone at the point, perfect flat landing, big moves on big holds, HIGH, it was put up by Bachar…
edit: “CROWD Pleaser” my bad
Gotta have some sandstone on the list.
V1 – The Extremist, Brickyard
V2 – Bow Spirits, Horse Flats Crowd Pleaser, Stoney Point
V3 – Kodas Corner, Stoney Point Charlotte’s Webb, Brickyard
V4 – The Yeti, Brick Yard
V5 – Southridge Arete, Idyllwild Dissing Euro’s, Pine Mtn. Envy, Tram
V6 – All Washed Up, Joshua Tree Pinched Loaf, Joshua Tree
V7 – Grotesque Old Woman, Brickyard
V8 – Snowblind, Tram Dancing Outlaw, Brickyard
V9 – Gimme Some, Black Mtn.
V8 – Sword of Damoceles, Horse Flats
mu-shaman arete:
http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=5906
A few more photos:
Coldstone V5 starts deep in the cave, big fun moves on good holds, then rock around the arete to a thin slab, last move is over a drop but easily spotted. http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=9482
http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=9478
also i forgot the Diving Board V1 at Tram, fun easy moves to a committing top out
FA photo: http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=14093
http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=20749
http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=20748
and also at Tram, Mister Toads Wild Ride V4 starts way back in the cave on a jug, big moves with heel toe cams, to a hard mantley top out http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=14084
Seriousky, Rick got it… Sword of Damocles is freaking iconic. Orange Flambé, also at Horse Flats is a gorgeous independent line as well, hard v8.
Thanks for this list, Alex….i’ve gone through and added a number of these to my list.
Peace!
dude southridge arete is more like stout 6 more like 7 though and im not being light either.
what about metamorphosis? is one of the best v10s on the mountain.
Where is woolley mammoth tusk located at tram? Can’t find it in the guide or mountain project.